Almost Famous
ALMOST FAMOUS (GOING BACK FOR SECONDS)
( Sampling the world’s best at a fraction of the cost)
Hello fellow Oenophiles and bargain seekers.Wanna know a little secret known only to the
wine cognoscenti that saves you a boatload of dough while drinking like the rich and famous?
Da? Of course you do. Well my friend, welcome to the world of “second labels”. “What is that,
you ask?” Good question. Quickly, these are wines that have been deemed by the producer
to be unworthy of the Chateau’s Grand Vin (top tier) designation.This could be for one of
many reasons including unanticipated variations in weather , soil , pests and the like. Ah,
“second”, not a place that one would aspire to. Afterall, it's the first loser, not good enough to
win, defective or flawed. Who would want seconds when you can have firsts? Well, you do my
friend and of course I am going to tell you why. See, in the world of wine, the concept of
“seconds” does not have the same meaning. That is because the best second labels wines
have their own individual character and charm which some might actually prefer. They could for
example be a bit less concentrated than the growers intended but in the glass you may find
them softer, more approachable and ultimately more enjoyable.Just because the finished
product failed to thrill the master vintner (man plans and god laughs) doesn’t mean they are not
going to thrill you.They are still after all , very high quality offerings , produced with the same
know-how, blending and care as their top line. There could be times, for example, if you are
toasting some special event that you may want their “Grand Vin “ but under most circumstances
these wines are going to taste just delicious with your lamb chops.You are in effect, getting
90% of the value for 50% of the cost and that is math that I like. Not surprisingly the whole
concept all started in 18th century France , particularly Bordeaux when early winemakers were
faced with a conundrum of what to do with perfectly fine grapes that did not make the final
cut.Tossing them made little economic sense and blending them with non Chateau grapes was
uber illegal. Intent upon softening the economic blow of a total loss , some enterprising growers
began to bottle and release these wines under a different label and at a much lower price point.
It was a win-win for the less affluent Bordeaux bunch (Bordelais) who could now afford to
consume these second labels with their day old baguette au fromage or organ meat of the
week. Nowadays, second labels have become a savvy way for top wineries to increase their
brand awareness , using it like a gateway drug to hook unsuspecting peasants like us to
someday splurge and pony up for their top shelf stuff. Some other producers take a different
approach , showcasing their best juice by offering a higher priced smaller second label as their
luxury brand much like Toyota and Lexus. Now as fascinating as you may find this information to
be, you may be asking yourself “ Self, what does it mean to me?” It means fellow value seeker
, that you can drink some very yummy wine grown by the world’s best producers without paying
the stiff price of admission. So if I can ever stop talking, let's take a look at some of the best and
most affordable second labels:
Le Volte (Dell’ Ornellaia). A personal favorite of mine by the makers of Ornellaia a $200 Super
Tuscan. At $27 this silky blend of Merlot, Cab and Saniovese is a super value, and a great
introduction to the world of fine Italian wines.
Decoy . From the makers of Duckhorn, Decoy may be the best known of the second label
wines with a reputation for delivering great quality at an excellent price point . Now offering a
“ Limited “ higher quality version ($30).
Bonanza . From the Wagner Family , producer of my all time favorite “Caymus.” Uber
affordable at $20, this “Baby Camus” though a bit sweet, is a real crowd pleaser.
Termes . From Bodega Numanthia ($18) . This Tempranillo is serious stuff , vibrant and
complex. From 200 year old vines, not for the faint of heart.
Cloudline. From Dreyfus Ashby ($16) . Now in its 19th vintage this very popular Willamette
Valley Pinot Noir is fruit driven and spicy.
Kali Hart . From Talbott ($15) While not too complex , this refreshing easy to drink
Chardonnay is the secret house wine of many restaurants, named for Talbott's daughter Kali.
Just a note. Second labels are all the rage in Bordeaux. Just about every major producer offers
them at a lower price point. I have omitted them here because even they cost less, they are still
too pricey for the fiscally conservative ( bargain hunting cheapskate). Also because I don’t
know crap about them and you already have enough useless information . As my father once
said “stick with what you know”, which is either really good advice or the reason that I worked
at the same job for 38 years. Hmmm.
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