Everything Old Is New Again
What do you get when you mix the area's top chef with an ancient Long Branch tradition?
You, my friends, get Nunzio's (230 Westwood Ave Long Branch ) . When I walk into this place its
like stepping into a time warp. It 1956 and my family and I going to the “ pizza parlor” for a fresh
“tomato pie”. I can almost hear the old men playing Bocce in the alleyway next door. The sites,
the smells , the jukebox , the plastic seats are all the same or are they? Yes and no. The pizza is
still thin and crispy with just the perfect char. The Antipast is still fresh and crunchy . But what's
this? Just whipped house ricotta with honey from Trama's own beehive ? Homemade Focaccia
with Robiola Cheese and Truffle Oil ? Pretty fancy for Nunzio’s. Yep , the digs are same , the
family friendly vibe is the same but the food , well that's elevated. In case you don't remember
Pat Trama is the classically trained executive chef of the splendid Trama's Trattoria (115
Brighton Ave) in Long Branch. His vision and skill is evident here. Instead of remaking
Nunzio's, he recharged it , preserving the tradition but adding a few twists of his own.
Now enough of that, now let's get to the food.. I would be remiss if I did not mention the
Chicken Parmigiana for 2 is absolutely Favolosa ( not the floor cleaner) , one of the best I have
ever tasted. It arrives perfectly fried and crispy with just the right texture. It is also humongous ,
filling two large plates which will keep you both fed until Wednesday for a mere $28. That my
friends makes this dish “TADA” my Food and Wine Corner bargain of the year .You also can’t
go wrong with Mama Trama's Spaghetti and Meatballs in Red Sauce.($22). I for one am kinda
glad that the new regime did not heed the advice of the previous owners Louie and his sister
(the original) Snookie who allegedly told him ”Look you just don’t change nothin “. To that I say
“Hey Louie, can you pass the cheese?”
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